Considered a few options here - The build yourself option using waterproof panels and a shower tray – and I came across a number of schools of thought on this…
Or the complete shower cubicle – choices here as well – plastic or fibreglass? Well my decision was made once I saw the fibreglass shower cubicle installed by a friend in his Hino. Well constructed, strong, no chance of water leaks and great value at about $450 from Beachmere Fibreglass. I had seen shower trays at this price. Of course with everything in motorhome construction there is a hurdle to overcome, in this case, getting it in, and once inside, standing it up.
Step one is to remove a window which turned out to be a surprisingly simple task. Take off the pinch mould around the window frame. Get a friend to hold the window while you cut the silicone bead around the frame. Lower the window carefully to the ground – the frame will sag a bit so be careful you don’t drop a sliding window out.
Step two is to cut the shower cubicle down in height. The window is big enough to get the cubicle inside but because it is a three-sided unit you can’t stand it up otherwise. Calculate the height to cut to by measuring diagonally on the wall of the cubicle to your maximum ceiling height – I had to cut off 210mm to allow me to pivot the cubicle to an upright position. It also helps if you do this before putting other cupboards in because you need the space. In my case it was simply a matter of positioning the cubicle as close the wheel arch as possible [as I needed maximum space forward of that for a single bed.]
I cut the cubicle off neatly with an angle grinder and a fine [for metal] disk. Keeping the cut straight makes it easy to rejoin the cubicle with a plastic joining strip. [It is scary cutting into something you just paid nearly $500 for]
Step three. Rebuild your shower unit with a plastic joining strip (available from hardware stores). As the shower cubicle has a curve on the front edge I used a hair dryer to heat the plastic for bending around the corner.
I chose a cubicle with one diagonal corner [shelves] and a raised front lip. I used the space behind the diagonal corner to position my external water fillers. I also tried to position the cubicle so a cassette toilet would line up with a convenient wall frame space in case I fitted a [external door] cassette toilet later. There would be a fair bit of body frame to cut away to fit one. Always a compromise – I’m happy with my choice – but the plain rectangular unit would haven given a bit more space and made it possible to fit a roll-away door. We are just using a shower curtain at the moment.
To complete the cubicle on the curved top of the bus I bought a piece of 2mm matching fibreglass ($20) and basically pushed it into place, sealing with white silicone.
By the way – because I retained my windows – I fitted a sheet of black painted ply between the window and cubicle to hide it from exterior view.
Monday, March 8, 2010
Fitout - Cupboard construction
I decided to make the bench run all the way from the bed to the door – a distance of 3m. I had considered a wardrobe type unit near the bed [I had seen a conversion done this way] but I didn’t want to block windows and it closed off the bed space making it feel too claustrophobic.
I built the bench in modules. A lot of planning went into drawer layouts, height of drawers, purpose of drawers, space for the oven, alignment with body frames [considered an external rollout BBQ initially], where the sink would go. I also required a 120mm kickboard as an electrical box had to be relocated to the floor underneath the cupboards. [I originally considered moving this to under the bus as I have learned others have done but I was concerned about keeping a considerable number of relays high and dry]
I used 9mm ply to build the carcase for each cabinet. I believed that when I joined these together the 18mm walls would be adequate – wrong – I could not believe the amount of movement and flex using this method. It wasn’t until I glued on a tassie oak face that the units became sufficiently rigid. From the bed end I created two extremely large clothes drawers – these sit above the wheel arch. Then there are 3 drawers used for groceries and pots/pans. The second unit is half height with one large drawer for the oven to sit on. The final unit closest to the door contains 4 small drawers and then a 3 drawer layout underneath the sink top. The drawers themselves are all made from 9mm ply boxes, varnished externally and lined with auto carpet (for sound damping and a quality look). Drawer fronts are constructed from a tassie oak surround [biscuit joined] and then routed to hold a 9mm ply panel and a 3mm face ply front. Conventional kitchen handles and metal drawer runners were used throughout.
A word on catches: Because I was using all drawers a lot of the conventional caravan mechanisms were unsuitable [never mind the expense] because I would have needed to place a divider between each drawer and lose valuable space. I opted for a pair of simple plastic cupboard latches at the rear of each drawer. These were relatively easy to fit with the cupboard units out of the bus. These locked the drawers quite solidly – in fact a little too well – and in the end I changed to a lighter weight spring loaded catch. These worked beautifully …. UNTIL … Lesson learned – once weight is added to the drawer going round a relatively sharp bend in the road resulted in drawer Armageddon. Back to the heavier catches – you get used to them and they work. In fact what we do now is once opened we do not close the drawer fully until we’re ready to move on. Another compromise!
Bench tops:
I wanted a good looking gloss laminate bench top and went to a couple of kitchen manufacturers. I investigated laminated 25mm ply rather than 40mm chipboard and could simply not justify the $1100+ pricetag for 3m x 50cm of bench top especially when I was going to cut 2 huge chunks of it out for the sink and the stove. Even a chipboard top was a ridiculous price. IKEA to the rescue – ready made laminated panels with a rolled edge [yes they are chipboard and heavier than I would have liked] cost me about $240 for the bench AND a table top. They even provide matching laminate edge strips for when you cut them to size. Another compromise!
While I was at IKEA I picked up a 16mm black kitchen panel in their odds and sods section to use for the splashback behind the bench. Also doubles as a neat finish behind the cupboards as the bench is above window ledge height.
I built the bench in modules. A lot of planning went into drawer layouts, height of drawers, purpose of drawers, space for the oven, alignment with body frames [considered an external rollout BBQ initially], where the sink would go. I also required a 120mm kickboard as an electrical box had to be relocated to the floor underneath the cupboards. [I originally considered moving this to under the bus as I have learned others have done but I was concerned about keeping a considerable number of relays high and dry]
I used 9mm ply to build the carcase for each cabinet. I believed that when I joined these together the 18mm walls would be adequate – wrong – I could not believe the amount of movement and flex using this method. It wasn’t until I glued on a tassie oak face that the units became sufficiently rigid. From the bed end I created two extremely large clothes drawers – these sit above the wheel arch. Then there are 3 drawers used for groceries and pots/pans. The second unit is half height with one large drawer for the oven to sit on. The final unit closest to the door contains 4 small drawers and then a 3 drawer layout underneath the sink top. The drawers themselves are all made from 9mm ply boxes, varnished externally and lined with auto carpet (for sound damping and a quality look). Drawer fronts are constructed from a tassie oak surround [biscuit joined] and then routed to hold a 9mm ply panel and a 3mm face ply front. Conventional kitchen handles and metal drawer runners were used throughout.
A word on catches: Because I was using all drawers a lot of the conventional caravan mechanisms were unsuitable [never mind the expense] because I would have needed to place a divider between each drawer and lose valuable space. I opted for a pair of simple plastic cupboard latches at the rear of each drawer. These were relatively easy to fit with the cupboard units out of the bus. These locked the drawers quite solidly – in fact a little too well – and in the end I changed to a lighter weight spring loaded catch. These worked beautifully …. UNTIL … Lesson learned – once weight is added to the drawer going round a relatively sharp bend in the road resulted in drawer Armageddon. Back to the heavier catches – you get used to them and they work. In fact what we do now is once opened we do not close the drawer fully until we’re ready to move on. Another compromise!
Bench tops:
I wanted a good looking gloss laminate bench top and went to a couple of kitchen manufacturers. I investigated laminated 25mm ply rather than 40mm chipboard and could simply not justify the $1100+ pricetag for 3m x 50cm of bench top especially when I was going to cut 2 huge chunks of it out for the sink and the stove. Even a chipboard top was a ridiculous price. IKEA to the rescue – ready made laminated panels with a rolled edge [yes they are chipboard and heavier than I would have liked] cost me about $240 for the bench AND a table top. They even provide matching laminate edge strips for when you cut them to size. Another compromise!
While I was at IKEA I picked up a 16mm black kitchen panel in their odds and sods section to use for the splashback behind the bench. Also doubles as a neat finish behind the cupboards as the bench is above window ledge height.
Sunday, January 17, 2010
Body and layout
Part of my aim was to build a quality setup while keeping costs at a reasonable level. Always a balancing act to find something cheaper to do the job you want, maintaining quality and knowing when to spend the money required on an expensive item.
Body and layout
Let’s face it – there are limited ways you can layout a 7m bus to make it a useable practical space. Everything becomes a compromise – there isn’t the width of most caravans so it’s always going to be challenge to get everything in.
The Body
After looking at a few converted buses, pictures of others and speaking to a couple of conversion folk it was apparent there are two schools of thought. Pull out the original windows and replace with panels and smaller windows making it look more like a motorhome OR leave things as they are. The black framed windows in our Hino were already tinted and in good condition and I wanted to retain as much visibility as possible so it seemed logical to just leave it the way it was. As I am sitting at the table writing this blog I think my decision was justified as I’m getting a great view of the lake and surrounding bush through the large window area.
Height
Interior height on the RB145 is only about 1.8m and some people opt to raise the roof. As we are both under 6’ it was a pretty easy [and cheaper] decision to live with a low ceiling and just leave things as is. [I was quoted about $8000 for a roof raise through Koolah campers – I’m not sure if this included the resultant impact on the aircon system.] The air conditioning in this bus works great with the ducting running full length on either side. I wanted to retain the air con so using snips and a lot of effort I cut the ducting off and resealed the tubes with ply panels. The ducting would have been more easily removed without the roof panels gone but as the vinyl was in very good condition I didn’t want to disturb it. I was also able to retain the existing curtain tracks. All the aircon pipes are on the passenger side of the bus and as I cut the ducting off at the doorway I was able to strap a lot of my wiring to the pipes. I was a bit tricky on the drivers side because even though I cut the ducting off where it would meet the shower cubicle I left a narrow exit and “double skinned” it so that cool air could still reach the rear of the bus. I also using the ducting to run some wiring which I will mention more in an electrical section.
Note: I saw one bus where the aircon ducts were actually left inside overhead cupboards – a bit pointless as they took up most of the cupboard space.
Layout:
While considering the layout there were several factors that influenced our decision.
The Rainbow is just wide enough for us to sleep across and being able to do so saves some valuable space. I had also seen a conversion with the double bed raised and a hatch installed for external access to the space underneath. Our first experiences using the bus without a fitout confirmed this was the way to go rather than carry an outside table and chairs through the vehicle at every stop. I thought I’d try to build in an extra layer of storage for access internally which I achieved by making the bed quite high. Removable drawers sit in a ply frame that supports the bed frame. This brought the mattress to window height so for privacy I made side panels out of ply and covered with auto carpet. A narrow box along the back sill also allows privacy and doubles as storage for books and magazines. The bed frame was a bit of a find. I sometimes investigate the local recycling centre [at the dump] and came across a sprung-slat king size frame [still in the plastic] for $30. It was quite an effort cutting down the frame and rebuilding it with sleeved joints but the effort was worth it as it is light weight, strong and quite comfortable. The bed frame was hinged at the back with large plastic marine hinges. I was intending to use gas struts to lift the front but was talked out of it and ended up using some sliding supports [cheaper option – about $20 pair] because they would last forever. I’m not entirely satisfied with their performance and Karen can’t comfortably lift the frame so I intend to change to gas struts in the future.
[Note: I have changed to gas struts and they are SO MUCH better. Went to a local manufacturer who was able to make them up for me for $30 each. I wasn't sure on what strength I would need - struts are measured in newtons - but the other advantage of ordering from this guy is he was prepared to adjust them for me if needed. I had read an article somewhere that roughly estimated 400 newtons lifted 40kg of weight. I opted for 300 newtons to each strut to lift the frame and the double mattress. The struts were 700mm long. I had a bit of mucking around getting the mounting position right so they lifted to the right height and closed correctly. As it turned out no adjustment was necessary - a slight lift of the bed frame and it raises itself and a controlled push down lowers it - fantastic!)
Couldn’t believe the price of foam mattresses when I priced them and ended up obtaining a double inner spring mattress from “Forty Winks” Did have to place a special order to have it made about 10cm shorter than standard but I don’t think it cost me any extra. [1800 x 1370]
Materials:
I had seen a few conversions done with chipboard and was quite underwhelmed. I priced Duralite at the caravan show and was a bit overwhelmed with the $7000 materials only quote so I opted for a ply alternative. Ply for the entire job so far has been about $700 ??. I obtained my ply from a local supplier … it was an imported hardwood ply with a good surface on both sides. [For those who don’t know ply comes in various grades which relate to the glues used, the finish on the surface and the timber used – high quality ply can be very expensive] I had seen standard ply varnished and it really wasn’t the look I wanted so I opted for a ply carcase, a ply veneer finish, tassie oak timber trim and grey auto carpet for some panels. I’m pretty happy with the look.
Body and layout
Let’s face it – there are limited ways you can layout a 7m bus to make it a useable practical space. Everything becomes a compromise – there isn’t the width of most caravans so it’s always going to be challenge to get everything in.
The Body
After looking at a few converted buses, pictures of others and speaking to a couple of conversion folk it was apparent there are two schools of thought. Pull out the original windows and replace with panels and smaller windows making it look more like a motorhome OR leave things as they are. The black framed windows in our Hino were already tinted and in good condition and I wanted to retain as much visibility as possible so it seemed logical to just leave it the way it was. As I am sitting at the table writing this blog I think my decision was justified as I’m getting a great view of the lake and surrounding bush through the large window area.
Height
Interior height on the RB145 is only about 1.8m and some people opt to raise the roof. As we are both under 6’ it was a pretty easy [and cheaper] decision to live with a low ceiling and just leave things as is. [I was quoted about $8000 for a roof raise through Koolah campers – I’m not sure if this included the resultant impact on the aircon system.] The air conditioning in this bus works great with the ducting running full length on either side. I wanted to retain the air con so using snips and a lot of effort I cut the ducting off and resealed the tubes with ply panels. The ducting would have been more easily removed without the roof panels gone but as the vinyl was in very good condition I didn’t want to disturb it. I was also able to retain the existing curtain tracks. All the aircon pipes are on the passenger side of the bus and as I cut the ducting off at the doorway I was able to strap a lot of my wiring to the pipes. I was a bit tricky on the drivers side because even though I cut the ducting off where it would meet the shower cubicle I left a narrow exit and “double skinned” it so that cool air could still reach the rear of the bus. I also using the ducting to run some wiring which I will mention more in an electrical section.
Note: I saw one bus where the aircon ducts were actually left inside overhead cupboards – a bit pointless as they took up most of the cupboard space.
Layout:
While considering the layout there were several factors that influenced our decision.
- Drawers wherever possible – not cupboards
- An oven would be nice
- A decent sized sink
- Prefer a comfy double bed [completely over a foam mattress sitting on ply]
- Shower and toilet (will have to share a space)
- Have to fit in a 3rd [single] bed for Blake.
The Rainbow is just wide enough for us to sleep across and being able to do so saves some valuable space. I had also seen a conversion with the double bed raised and a hatch installed for external access to the space underneath. Our first experiences using the bus without a fitout confirmed this was the way to go rather than carry an outside table and chairs through the vehicle at every stop. I thought I’d try to build in an extra layer of storage for access internally which I achieved by making the bed quite high. Removable drawers sit in a ply frame that supports the bed frame. This brought the mattress to window height so for privacy I made side panels out of ply and covered with auto carpet. A narrow box along the back sill also allows privacy and doubles as storage for books and magazines. The bed frame was a bit of a find. I sometimes investigate the local recycling centre [at the dump] and came across a sprung-slat king size frame [still in the plastic] for $30. It was quite an effort cutting down the frame and rebuilding it with sleeved joints but the effort was worth it as it is light weight, strong and quite comfortable. The bed frame was hinged at the back with large plastic marine hinges. I was intending to use gas struts to lift the front but was talked out of it and ended up using some sliding supports [cheaper option – about $20 pair] because they would last forever. I’m not entirely satisfied with their performance and Karen can’t comfortably lift the frame so I intend to change to gas struts in the future.
[Note: I have changed to gas struts and they are SO MUCH better. Went to a local manufacturer who was able to make them up for me for $30 each. I wasn't sure on what strength I would need - struts are measured in newtons - but the other advantage of ordering from this guy is he was prepared to adjust them for me if needed. I had read an article somewhere that roughly estimated 400 newtons lifted 40kg of weight. I opted for 300 newtons to each strut to lift the frame and the double mattress. The struts were 700mm long. I had a bit of mucking around getting the mounting position right so they lifted to the right height and closed correctly. As it turned out no adjustment was necessary - a slight lift of the bed frame and it raises itself and a controlled push down lowers it - fantastic!)
Couldn’t believe the price of foam mattresses when I priced them and ended up obtaining a double inner spring mattress from “Forty Winks” Did have to place a special order to have it made about 10cm shorter than standard but I don’t think it cost me any extra. [1800 x 1370]
Materials:
I had seen a few conversions done with chipboard and was quite underwhelmed. I priced Duralite at the caravan show and was a bit overwhelmed with the $7000 materials only quote so I opted for a ply alternative. Ply for the entire job so far has been about $700 ??. I obtained my ply from a local supplier … it was an imported hardwood ply with a good surface on both sides. [For those who don’t know ply comes in various grades which relate to the glues used, the finish on the surface and the timber used – high quality ply can be very expensive] I had seen standard ply varnished and it really wasn’t the look I wanted so I opted for a ply carcase, a ply veneer finish, tassie oak timber trim and grey auto carpet for some panels. I’m pretty happy with the look.
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