Body and layout
Let’s face it – there are limited ways you can layout a 7m bus to make it a useable practical space. Everything becomes a compromise – there isn’t the width of most caravans so it’s always going to be challenge to get everything in.
The Body
After looking at a few converted buses, pictures of others and speaking to a couple of conversion folk it was apparent there are two schools of thought. Pull out the original windows and replace with panels and smaller windows making it look more like a motorhome OR leave things as they are. The black framed windows in our Hino were already tinted and in good condition and I wanted to retain as much visibility as possible so it seemed logical to just leave it the way it was. As I am sitting at the table writing this blog I think my decision was justified as I’m getting a great view of the lake and surrounding bush through the large window area.
Height
Interior height on the RB145 is only about 1.8m and some people opt to raise the roof. As we are both under 6’ it was a pretty easy [and cheaper] decision to live with a low ceiling and just leave things as is. [I was quoted about $8000 for a roof raise through Koolah campers – I’m not sure if this included the resultant impact on the aircon system.] The air conditioning in this bus works great with the ducting running full length on either side. I wanted to retain the air con so using snips and a lot of effort I cut the ducting off and resealed the tubes with ply panels. The ducting would have been more easily removed without the roof panels gone but as the vinyl was in very good condition I didn’t want to disturb it. I was also able to retain the existing curtain tracks. All the aircon pipes are on the passenger side of the bus and as I cut the ducting off at the doorway I was able to strap a lot of my wiring to the pipes. I was a bit tricky on the drivers side because even though I cut the ducting off where it would meet the shower cubicle I left a narrow exit and “double skinned” it so that cool air could still reach the rear of the bus. I also using the ducting to run some wiring which I will mention more in an electrical section.
Note: I saw one bus where the aircon ducts were actually left inside overhead cupboards – a bit pointless as they took up most of the cupboard space.
Layout:
While considering the layout there were several factors that influenced our decision.
- Drawers wherever possible – not cupboards
- An oven would be nice
- A decent sized sink
- Prefer a comfy double bed [completely over a foam mattress sitting on ply]
- Shower and toilet (will have to share a space)
- Have to fit in a 3rd [single] bed for Blake.
The Rainbow is just wide enough for us to sleep across and being able to do so saves some valuable space. I had also seen a conversion with the double bed raised and a hatch installed for external access to the space underneath. Our first experiences using the bus without a fitout confirmed this was the way to go rather than carry an outside table and chairs through the vehicle at every stop. I thought I’d try to build in an extra layer of storage for access internally which I achieved by making the bed quite high. Removable drawers sit in a ply frame that supports the bed frame. This brought the mattress to window height so for privacy I made side panels out of ply and covered with auto carpet. A narrow box along the back sill also allows privacy and doubles as storage for books and magazines. The bed frame was a bit of a find. I sometimes investigate the local recycling centre [at the dump] and came across a sprung-slat king size frame [still in the plastic] for $30. It was quite an effort cutting down the frame and rebuilding it with sleeved joints but the effort was worth it as it is light weight, strong and quite comfortable. The bed frame was hinged at the back with large plastic marine hinges. I was intending to use gas struts to lift the front but was talked out of it and ended up using some sliding supports [cheaper option – about $20 pair] because they would last forever. I’m not entirely satisfied with their performance and Karen can’t comfortably lift the frame so I intend to change to gas struts in the future.
[Note: I have changed to gas struts and they are SO MUCH better. Went to a local manufacturer who was able to make them up for me for $30 each. I wasn't sure on what strength I would need - struts are measured in newtons - but the other advantage of ordering from this guy is he was prepared to adjust them for me if needed. I had read an article somewhere that roughly estimated 400 newtons lifted 40kg of weight. I opted for 300 newtons to each strut to lift the frame and the double mattress. The struts were 700mm long. I had a bit of mucking around getting the mounting position right so they lifted to the right height and closed correctly. As it turned out no adjustment was necessary - a slight lift of the bed frame and it raises itself and a controlled push down lowers it - fantastic!)
Couldn’t believe the price of foam mattresses when I priced them and ended up obtaining a double inner spring mattress from “Forty Winks” Did have to place a special order to have it made about 10cm shorter than standard but I don’t think it cost me any extra. [1800 x 1370]
Materials:
I had seen a few conversions done with chipboard and was quite underwhelmed. I priced Duralite at the caravan show and was a bit overwhelmed with the $7000 materials only quote so I opted for a ply alternative. Ply for the entire job so far has been about $700 ??. I obtained my ply from a local supplier … it was an imported hardwood ply with a good surface on both sides. [For those who don’t know ply comes in various grades which relate to the glues used, the finish on the surface and the timber used – high quality ply can be very expensive] I had seen standard ply varnished and it really wasn’t the look I wanted so I opted for a ply carcase, a ply veneer finish, tassie oak timber trim and grey auto carpet for some panels. I’m pretty happy with the look.
